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Updated: 10 February 2010
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There
is a fine line between a
Hobby and a severe mental illness
The
thought of 'sitting
in my basement surrounded by solvent fumes while drinking beer
and building
scale-model plastic aircraft' for the next couple of years
seemed harmless enough, but this solipsism was rudely side-tracked
one evening when one of the 'voices inside my head' instructed
me to rebuild a Dodge M-37 3/4 ton cargo truck (#34594, 1952).
The project subsequently bloated into a frankenstinian transmogrification
of my childhood preoccupation with erector sets and tinker toys,
all now mixed liberally with alkaloid toxins, assorted pain
killers, and a wide range of hops & grains. Not sure what
to make of this collection of bolts and sheet metal, but it's
dripping with something (but not quite) akin to charisma. |
List
of things replaced/added on this M37:
brake lines, master cylinder, brake cylinders, carburetor,
exhaust manifold, plugs, fan belt, all gauges, all senders,
speedo-cable, entire electrical harness (retained 24V system),
coil, distributor, generator, generator power cable, voltage
regulator, throttle/choke cables, fuel-filter, cowl-seal,
vacuum lines and wiper motors, turn-signal switch/additional
indicator light on R. rear, all draft seals, horn/switch,
seat covers, emergency brake lever/linkage, mirrors, all glass
and weather-stripping, 5 tires/tubes/wraps, fender welts,
tailgate/chains, gas tank filler hoses, reflectors, 24V Siren,
and lock-out hubs.
John
Bizal and his parts, advice (& patience)
are excellent!
Great thanks are also due to GP-Auto & NAPA-Auto!
I
wish to extend a well-deserved thank-you to the following
businesses that provided
critial how-to advice, parts, NOS parts, and boundless sympathy
throughout the project.
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No brakes and
tailgate
was a disaster. Original bed
had been modified to carry a water tank, but was
replaced with an intact bed by Gronevelt
before sale
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Arrival
in Brookings, ready for breakdown (Dec. 2005)
Note replacement bed and 'carbon-monoxide generator'
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Back from
sandblasting, ready for new brakes,
brake lines, tires, lights, & electrical harness
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Not an
off-frame restoration by any means,
but enough to get at the few problems that existed
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Looks
thread-bare, but everything solid, little or no rust
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The careful
observer will notice that this M37 is not painted Military/Olive
Drab. Tailgate
is a reproduction and required
some grinding to fit into original hinges/braze-ons.
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New glass
all around, gauges, senders, boots,
seat-covers, horn button/wiring, & info plates
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Note:
solid state volt-reg. + new carb
Purred like a kitten, at first...
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This
truck is possessed by an electrical ghost that has an appetite
for voltage regulators. This truck ate the original mechanical
unit and has chewed its way through two additional solid state
voltage regulators as if they were Oreo cookies.
Of
course, the truck chews its' food very carefully and it takes
about 6-8 months for it to process each regulator in turn.
These can get pricey ($300) depending on your source.
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CURRENT
FIX: I wanted to work up a system in which the
original voltage-regulator housing could be filled with
a relay and small solid-state voltage regulator and accomplish
the job while maintaining a "correct" appearance
under the hood. This 'fix' neatly installs in the old housing
using the existing castings. Once crinkle-black painted
and the cover put back on, the general appearance is"original".
PROBLEMS:
I didn't want to tear into the heavy power cables, so, I ran
the #10/11 circuit wire up from the ignition through a small
knock-out plug located on the back wall of the regulator chassis.
The miniaturized voltage regulator and it's circuitry needs
a relay and an additional switch to prevent the relay from
spinning-up the generator as if it were a motor.
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Updated:
8 September 2008
Wiring diagram PDF
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All
parts are readily available (<< $100): Solid State
Voltage Regulator (Motorola 105-177), CH Electrical
Relay (CH 24063), plus switches & wire, etc.
Assembly
of the connections, switches, and then running wire was
simple. I don't mind the extra switch on the dash, but I'm
sure others may find a more acceptable switch set-up.
OPERATION
OF SYSTEM:
1. Turn ignition switch on (switch #1),
start engine, let engine come to smooth idle
2. Turn charging switch on (switch #2),
this engages the regulator & charges batteries
3. Shut-down – both switches to 'Off'.
* It
is absolutely critical that this sequence is followed -
if not - you will fry the regulator - I did this accidentally.
It would be better to keep the switches a safe distance
from each other -or- to simply employ a two-position switch.
DESIGNER:
Scott Nielsen, 704 Main Ave. S
Brookings SD 57006, 605-697-7543
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The name
"VOGON"
(vanity license plates) on my M37 was inspired by Douglas
Adams' book,'Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy'. The
book begins with Earth being destroyed by an alien race (Vogons)
to make way for a Hyperspace Bypass. Their huge yellow spaceships
aredescribed as...
'large yellow slab-like somethings
which hung in space in exactly the
same way that a brick doesn't.
You
can work out the rest for yourself.
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